Due to the recent series of tragedies in the Alberta Rockies I have decided to share my thoughts and some facts on rappelling.
From the evidence provided by the media, I have drawn the conclusion that both tragic accidents this summer that led to the deaths of three climbers were the result of either ignorance or poor judgment.
The first accident took place in the Kananaskis area in late July, the two climbers used one rope and two devices to perform a simultaneous rappel. This technique requires the climbers to each rappel from separate ends of the rope after it has been looped around or through an anchor. This technique is considered dangerous to many in the realm of climbing for a number of reasons. First, putting the weight of two climbers on one rope is an unnecessary risk. Second, if a climber does happen to rappel off the end of the rope, which seems to have been the case in this instance, the other climber will have no counterweight to prevent their deathly free fall.
The second accident happened a few days ago on castle mountain. CBC radio reports that the man was rappelling down the mountain and ended up rappelling off the end of his rope. Again, this to me seems to be a blatant case of poor judgment and practice. In this case as well as the previous incident, a simple knot tied to the end of the rappellers rope may have prevent death.
Rappelling can be an unnerving and dangerous aspect of rock climbing. It can cause fear and anxiety to an already moderately difficult process. It is important to keep calm and make sure you set up a proper rappel and use good judgment. If you feel In any way, shape, or form unsafe do NOT climb over that ledge!
A few tips I always remember to implement into my rappels are; always do your safety checks, inspect all your equipment, your rope and your harness for wear. Be sure to always tie a knot at the end of your rope. Always have a safety knot tied above your rappel device, such as a prusik or a klemheist. These knots will act as a safety line, giving you the peace of mind and control you need to keep calm.
As for the climbers that lost their lives on the mountain in the last few weeks, I feel great sorrow for them and would like to extend my deepest apologies to their families and friends. The climbing community is a strong group and I am sure we are all experiencing the shockwave that is felt after such tragic events as these take place.
One thing we all need to realize as climbers, is that climbing is a potentially dangerous sport. We need to remember to never take anything for granted. Even though it is highly rewarding and a lot fun, we need to take the time to question ourselves, our equipment, and our techniques. Be safe out there my friends.
http://www.openfile.ca/calgary/blog/2012/explainer-why-local-instructor-would-never-teach-simul-rappelling-technique-used-c
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