First Summer On Lead, Fun, and a Lesson Learned the Hard Way

Other than recent trips to the local bouldering spot this year, a friend and I have also managed to get to the mountains to try out sport climbing. Getting outside on lead was something that I had thought about quite often during the cold snowy months while climbing inside, I felt confident in my abilities and could not wait to see what real rock and the sharp end had to offer. After a year and a half of solid growth in my climbing, as well as what I had learned from my climbing mentors and friends, I felt I was ready to take what I had learned from my time on the plastic, outside. Not even a year ago I would sit and watch in awe of what they could do on the wall, now I was keeping up, I felt good.  I had read up and did my homework on the logistics of sport climbing as well as probed other experienced members of the climbing community for knowledge. With the work being done I felt I could make it up some routes safely and with confidence. The catalyst of the jump into sport climbing was my good friend Julian, he is a talented climber with great knowledge of the sport. He works at the local climbing gym and has things pretty dialled. Although he had never taken the sharp end outside either, he did have years of experience inside. This was enough for me, we needed to make the move to real rock, so we did.

Our chance came after a weekend of bouldering with my lovely wife Kate in Jasper National Park, We met up with Julian and his wife on their way back from a trip to the West Coast. Julian and I both decided that Juno Wall would be a good place to get in our first lead try. Juno is a south facing crag north of the Jasper townsite with great sun exposure, an optimal early season climbing spot. After a long approach, we found ourselves under the crag. Right away we realized we had come to the right place. All the routes were bolted up really good, a good safe start to our sport climbing careers. Since it was our first go, we opted for a nice easy 5.8 route called Bleeding Heart Show. We worked out the process, the gear we needed, and an exit strategy, and for the first time it didn't seem like such a bad thing if a piece of gear needed to left behind. Julian took the lead and on sighted it! I strapped up right after and flashed the 5.8. I have to say it felt great to get the first notch in the belt!

The scramble approach to Juno Wall in Jasper

Julian on "Bleeding Heart Show 5.8"

Me Cleaning the Route

We headed home with our first in the bag and I could not wait until the next time. I was so pumped to get back, I found myself scouting out the next trips routes and made a list. Things were getting exciting, summer was here and I wanted to send everything!

We finally made it back for the may long weekend and chose to hit up Lost Boys,  one of Jaspers most popular sport climbing spots. Again we looked for a nice and easy warm up, although it was crazy busy, we managed to find another nice 5.8 to warm up on. Feeling confident in myself I took the lead, readied my draws, and tied in. A quick on-sight was made! The rock was amazing and although the bolts were spread a little further apart than at Juno I felt confident throughout my on-sight attempt. Julian then quickly shot up the route and cleaned things up. Not too bad, we thought, we got this. 

My On-sight of "Social Foreplay 5.8"

Now that two 5.8's were on-sighted we both felt it was time try something a little more difficult. We found an route unfortunately named Satans Hairy Semen a super fun looking 5.10a, with a cool roof. Again I readied myself for the climb and started up. I found the route reachy but the holds were all pretty massive, I pulled the roof no problem and before I knew it, another onsight! I was pretty excited, and did not even feel pumped! I wanted more. Julian unfortunately got a hand cramp and had to call it a red point attempt, but still a send. He is a skilled climber and I know without a doubt he was worthy of the Flash. 

My On-sight of "Satans Hairy Semen 5.10a"

Julian on the Route.

After the 10a, I decided to try a 5.11a-b line that was bolted on the opposite side of the arete we had just climbed, called Boonie on the Nose, I  gave it the best go I could, for the end of the day, but I got pumped and could not pull the roof. I felt the moves were all there, but I had just pumped myself trying the wrong sequence, I am excited to get back on the this one. 

Giving 110% on Boonie on the Nose 5.11 a-b

After my failed attempt on the route the Saturday was over and considered a great success, we would be back Monday but things would go in a drastically different direction.

After a rest day sunday that included a nice hike of The Valley of The Five Lakes, as well as a dip in the Miette Hot springs, we were back at Lost Boys Monday morning. we were excited to try to push the limits of previous days and really come into our own, as we began to gain more confidence on lead. The crag was pretty empty but the two routes that we had planned on jumping on were taken. I quickly decided to try my luck at a 5.10b called Saturday Night Special, ignorant to the logistics of the route I gave my fingers a stretch and took the lead. I soon realized that I had underestimated the route I was on. The first bolt was pretty high but I felt I could boulder up to it, my first mistake was that I did not know that the crux was just before the run out second bolt. The sequence of mistakes that I would make in the next 3 minutes would humble me and in the end force me to take a step back from my ambitions. As I said before, the first mistake I made was running it out to my second clip without knowing I was dealing with the crux moves, some little and pumpy sloped cracks. My second mistake, was that I underestimated how much rope I had out, the third mistake was not clipping, I had the chance and I gave up, I should have clipped. Mistake four was not letting my belayer know I had given up, if Julian would have known, he could have taken up enough slack to avoid what was about to happen next. So, you can tell by know that this went terribly wrong. By compounding all of these easily avoidable errors I set my self up for a bad fall. From 25 feet up, on a run out route, with way to much rope out, and no communication to my belayer, I took a bad ground fall. Before I could even realize my mistake I was waking up from the haze. I landed hard, hit my back on a large protruding rock, and smashed my head on another rock. Thank goodness I was wearing a helmet, the one thing I did right. I walked away with some bruised internal organs, a nasty cut on the back of me head, and some other cuts and bruises. One thing is for sure, I will take this series of mistakes as a lesson learned the hard way. I also find it ironic that in my last post I had stated that I vowed to become an advocate for new climbers, and hardly a week later I am writing this post. So here goes, this is what I learned, in no particular order. 

1. Always wear a helmet, it saved my life.

2. Know what your getting yourself into when you jump on a route, where's the crux, should you  

    stick clip it, is the rock cold and damp, that sort of thing. 

3. Know how much rope you have out, apparently important, (who knew?)

4. Practice clipping at home, as a newer climber I completely underestimated the importance of being  

    to calm down and make a simple clip when shit was hitting the fan. 

5. Clip if you can, I regret so much not just clipping, with the combination of all that I had done  

    wrong up until this point a simple clip would have avoided it all.

6. Communicate with your belayer, I was to proud to say I felt pumped, taking up the slack could 

    have easily prevented the entire mess. 

I will be back to this route, prepared and ready next time. Happy Climbing everyone, Stay safe and crush hard! I would also like to give a shout out to Black Diamond for making a great helmet, the Half Dome saved my skull, thanks BD!

Also want to give a big shout out to Ashley Camsell for all the great photos!

    

Seconds before the fall, the second bolt is still above my head in this photo.

    

Bear Mountain Blizzard Bouldering 2013

Monday April, 29 2013. Bear Mountain Trip.

Even though the snow was coming down and the drive down felt more like a ski road trip than a climbing trip we stuck it out, and had a fun, and interesting day. Not only did we encounter snow but, also just as we were approaching our last turn we encountered an obstacle, good thing we had Ty's Ford to get us through. Not long after we got to Bear Mountains and our crash pads were opened and planted into the rising snow drifts the sun decided to peak it's head and the wind actually stopped! I decided this would be the best time as any to jump on one of my summer projects, "The Doctors Office V6." With the rock and myself being cold my fingers slipped off the first big pinch and I raked my knuckles down the wall, it looked like I had beed attacked by a meat grinder. Ouch! I had been there for fifteen minutes and I was gushing. I decided I had better take a break, so I took the time to take a walk and explore a new area. I found allot of new boulders and after taking too many photos vowed to be back when the sun was shining. I then headed back to the project taped up and gave it my all coming to the crux move once. It's a huge move from a sloper and two awkwardly high feet, I have to say the due to the committed move that is awkward and high off the deck I was intimidated. I tried until the tank was emptied then we called it a day. I am determined to send this beauty. I also have to say that Bear Mountain is a great place for the new climber to get out to, many easy but fun boulder problems that promote good technique and hours of enjoyment.  Here are some snaps from the trip.

The road to Bear Mountain left me asking myself "What are you doing?"

The Tree That we were faced with "Should we turn back?"

"Nope Ty's Got It"

Courtesy of the pinch on "The Doctors Office"

We actually climbed...a little. 

Climbing up a Storm!

Since the college year ended, at the end of April, the climbing has been non stop. Every weekend for three weeks, and another climbing trip has been planned for this weekend. Being that this is only my second serious year climbing outdoors, I have to say that I am happy with my progress and I am also happy to be able to be a representative of and for some new climbers out there that are looking to get outside on some real rock. I have been thinking long and hard lately about how I can help out in all realms when it comes to this sport that I love so much, and the conclusion that I have drawn is that what I can due is do my best to help establish new climbing areas, as well as be an honest ambassador to all the new climbers out their that are trying to get over that sharp learning curve that can come with learning to advance in a sport that in many cases is dangerous if practiced incorrectly.  So here is how I have been contributing to lately as well as what I have been sending in the last few weeks!

    I will enclose three posts in the next few days, can't commit to logging them all in one sitting when there is climbing to be done. The first week out their we headed to Bear Mountain, our new close to home spot. Prior to this planned day of climbing the weather had been amazing but this particular monday the weather would take a drastic change. Record setting winds as well as a spring blizzard would put a damper on our sends but we were still pumped just to get out their and brush some holds in preparation of the summer season. Our second trip would be to Jasper National Park to check out the infamous Tonquin Boulder, as well as take the Sharp end for the first time outside, at Jaspers Juno Wall. Our third trip would be back to Bear Mountain, to finally get our mitts on some warm dry rock that we had been waiting on all winter long.

At The Tonquin Boulder        A little peak of what's to Come in the next few posts.